A close bunch

Eating chez Sabon says it all, or nearly. It’s a godsend for anyone seeking to understand the family’s history. You find yourself, quite naturally, in the house of Christophe and Isabelle’s parents, in the vast living room. Vine branches by the fireplace. Chops awaiting embers. In the kitchen, Hélène, the mother, prepares the meal with gusto. For a long time she worked with her husband. Now she has chosen to look after the household and her grandchildren. Round the table, Aimé, the father, serves a 1992 white Châteauneuf du Pape from the estate, a perfect match for the truffle brouillade. In the Sabon family, each generation matters and respects the others. The oldest never bemoan times past. Aimé explains: “The family is written in our genes, I’ve always had confidence in the youngsters. I admire what my children do. Christophe, when he was three years old, used to fall asleep in the sun among the vines. My grandsons are like that too. They give me absolute motivation.” Christophe and Isabelle are following the path marked out by Aimé and Hélène. Of course they have made improvements, gradually steering the vineyards towards organic principles, pampering the old Grenache vines planted by their grandfather. You should have seen Aimé’s face when Christophe began hoeing between the vines again, like in their grandfather’s day! The style of the wines has changed, too: they are now more forthright, more elegant. Aimé has let all this happen because he trusts them. When he goes “dormant”, like the vines in autumn, it’s to go hunting woodcock... with Christophe. They forget everything, but not the heritage they bear with a humble passion. It’s what life’s all about!