At Rhône Vignobles, some growers are organic and have the label, others are but do not, while others still are currently being certified. Some apply or are trialling biodynamics. Others, meanwhile, work to culture raisonnée principles. To be more precise, they all refuse to be confined by a grape-growing format. They cultivate their vines sensibly, mindful – as good, eco-friendly citizens – that soils must be respected and the environment protected. Revolutionaries, no. “Terroirists”, certainly. One day they will hand down their viticultural heritage, and not for anything would they bequeath asepticised land. They just want to see how happy their children are, breathing earth that is fresh and alive.